Early Spring Flowers, a Practical Guide to Early Blooming Perennials

Start by saying what getting this means: early spring flowers are bulbs and hardy perennials that bloom from late winter through mid spring, giving color when most other plants are still asleep. If you want early spring flowers, plant the right bulbs and perennials at the right depth and time, and do a few simple tasks this summer so you get bigger displays next year.

Promise

By the end of this guide you will know which early blooming perennials and bulbs to plant, exactly how and when to plant them by your frost dates, and what maintenance to do now for bigger spring color next year.

What counts as early spring flowers

Early spring flowers include small bulbs like crocus, snowdrops, and scilla, larger bulbs like tulips and daffodils, and perennials that bloom early such as hellebores, lungwort, and primrose. They open when soil is cool, often before trees leaf out. Pick a mix for staggered color from late February through May.

Timing by frost dates

Always tie actions to your local last spring frost and first fall frost rather than fixed calendar dates. In central Ohio, USDA zone 6b, last frost is around May 10 and first fall frost is around October 15. Adjust like this:

• Warmer zones, 7 to 9, plant bulbs a little later in fall, often November, or pre-chill bulbs if buying late.
• Colder zones, 3 to 5, plant bulbs earlier in fall, September to early October, to allow roots before hard freeze.
• Perennials, plant bare root or potted stock in early spring as soon as soil is workable, roughly 4 to 6 weeks before your last frost, or up to 2 weeks after last frost for hardy varieties.

Which bulbs and perennials to choose

Choose a mix so something blooms almost every week of early spring. Here are reliable choices, with varieties to try.

• Crocus, small bulbs, plant 3 inches deep, 3 inches apart. Varieties: ‘Flower Record’ and ‘Remembrance’.
• Snowdrops, Galanthus, plant 3 inches deep, 3 to 4 inches apart. Good for naturalizing under trees.
• Siberian squill and scilla, plant 3 inches deep, 3 to 4 inches apart for drifts.
• Daffodils, plant 4 to 6 inches deep, 6 inches apart. Varieties: ‘Mount Hood’ and ‘Ice Follies’.
• Tulips, plant 6 to 8 inches deep, 4 to 6 inches apart. Use species tulips for better naturalizing; try ‘Tulipa kaufmanniana’.
• Hyacinth, plant 4 to 6 inches deep, 4 to 6 inches apart for fragrance.
• Anemone de Caen, 1 to 2 inches deep, 3 inches apart, good for late spring color.
• Hellebores, perennial evergreen, set crown at soil level, 18 inches apart. Varieties: ‘Orientalis’.
• Lungwort (Pulmonaria), plant crowns at soil level, 12 to 18 inches apart, blooms early and tolerates shade.
• Primrose, plant 6 to 8 inches apart, good in moist part shade.

Planting bulbs, step by step

1. Check your last frost date, then plan fall planting: aim for 2 to 4 weeks before steady ground freeze, or when soil temperature is consistently below 60 degrees F. In central Ohio, mid October works for most bulbs.
2. Prepare the bed, 6 inches deep, by clearing weeds and loosening soil. Mix 2 inches of compost into the top 6 inches of soil over the area.
3. Add fertilizer for bulbs: sprinkle 2 tablespoons of bone meal or a bulb starter in each planting hole, or broadcast 1/2 cup of 10-10-10 per 10 square feet and mix into top 3 inches.
4. Plant bulbs at the recommended depth and spacing given above, pointed end up. Firm soil around each bulb, and water each planting with about 0.5 gallons (2 liters) to settle soil.
5. Cover with 2 inches of mulch to slow temperature swings and reduce heaving. Remove heavy mulch only after the ground thaws in spring.

Planting perennials that bloom early

Perennials are often planted in spring or fall. For early spring bloomers, fall planting is fine, but you can set potted perennials in early spring as soon as soil is workable and not waterlogged.

1. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball, same depth as pot. Backfill with native soil plus 1 cup compost per plant for small crowns, or 2 cups for larger root balls.
2. Set the crown at soil level, firm the soil, and water with 1 gallon per plant to eliminate air pockets.
3. Space hellebores 18 inches apart, lungwort 12 to 18 inches apart, primroses 6 to 8 inches apart. Use these spacings so leaves do not crowd and shade flowers.

Maintenance now, midsummer tasks that pay off next spring

We are in midsummer heat, so focus on root building and pest checks. Do these simple tasks to help next spring’s show.

• Leave bulb foliage alone until it turns fully yellow. That can be 6 to 12 weeks after bloom. Rarely cut back earlier. Foliage feeds the bulb for next year.
• Deadhead spent flowers to prevent seed production that drains energy, but do not remove leaves until they yellow.
• Water deeply during dry spells, 1 inch per week for beds, applied as a single soak, not light sprinkles. See guidelines at this page on when to water vegetable plants in summer for timing that fits hot weather: when to water vegetable plants in summer.
• In July and August, check for overcrowded or dying bulbs. Lift and divide crowded clumps of daffodils and tulips in late summer to early fall, once foliage is dormant. Replant immediately at proper depth.
• Add 1 inch of compost over the bed in early fall to improve soil. If you use a raised bed, tie this work to raised bed care and drainage, see raised bed gardening for beginners for tips on drainage and soil mixes.

Common failure modes and how to avoid them

Bulb rot from poor drainage is the top failure I see. Heavy clay or flat sites that stay wet through winter will rot tulips and hyacinths.

Fix it by planting bulbs on raised rows or in raised beds, add 1 part grit or sharp sand to 3 parts soil when planting, and keep planting depth correct. I lost a whole bed to rot the year I skipped raised rows, so drainage comes first.

Pests and diseases to watch

Rodents like voles, mice, and squirrels eat bulbs. Protect bulbs with 1/2 inch hardware cloth cages buried 6 inches below and 2 inches above the bulbs, or plant in wire baskets. Deer avoid daffodils but eat tulips, so pick deer-resistant varieties or use repellents.

Fungal diseases can follow poor drainage. Apply no fungicide without identifying the disease, contact your county extension for diagnosis and safe options.

Design tips for repeat bloom and color

Plant bulbs in drifts, not straight rows. Use 50 to 100 bulbs per 10 square feet for a dense natural look, mixing sizes and colors. For continuous color, stagger plantings of crocus first, then daffodils and tulips, then late spring anemones.

Include evergreen foliage plants like hellebores and early-leafing groundcovers to keep the bed tidy after bulb foliage wanes. If you want a tiny kitchen cut flower patch, combine early bulbs with herbs from this list of best herbs for small backyard gardens for scent and repeated harvests: best herbs for small backyard gardens.

When to split and move plants

Split crowded perennials in late summer or early fall when growth slows but before the ground freezes. For bulbs that clump, like daffodils, lift in July to September when leaves are fully yellow and dry. Tulips usually perform better if replaced or refreshed every 3 to 4 years.

Companion planting and follow-up

Plant early bulbs with low-growing groundcovers or spring annuals. After leaves yellow and are removed, follow the bed with summer bulbs or bedding plants. If you grow veggies in containers, stagger container planting so bulbs and perennials do not compete for space, see how to grow tomatoes in containers for container timing ideas.

FAQ heading

When should I plant bulbs for early spring color?

Plant spring-flowering bulbs in fall, 2 to 4 weeks before the ground freezes. Use your first fall hard frost and soil temperature below 60 degrees F as cues. In central Ohio that is mid October. In colder zones plant earlier, and in warm zones plant a little later or pre-chill bulbs as instructed on the package.

Can I cut back bulb foliage right after the flowers fade?

No, wait until the leaves are fully yellow and limp before cutting back. Leaves feed the bulb for next year. That often means leaving foliage alone for 6 to 12 weeks after bloom. For impatient gardeners, tie the foliage into a tidy roll, but do not remove it early.

How deep should I plant tulips and daffodils?

Plant tulips 6 to 8 inches deep, measured from the soil surface to the top of the bulb, and space 4 to 6 inches apart. Plant daffodils 4 to 6 inches deep, spaced about 6 inches apart. Proper depth protects bulbs from freeze and rodents, and encourages sturdy stems.

My bulbs sometimes disappear, what eats them?

Squirrels, mice, and voles commonly dig up and eat bulbs. Protect plantings with 1/2 inch hardware cloth cages set 6 inches below and 2 inches above bulbs, or plant in wire baskets. For small bulbs, netting over the bed will reduce theft until foliage emerges.