You Can Still Plant These Vegetables in July, Here’s Your Full List

It is not too late to plant vegetables in July. You can still plant these vegetables in July right now, this week. Direct seed beans, plant broccoli and cabbage transplants, sow lettuce and spinach, and get okra in the ground before heat peaks. July plantings are different from spring plantings because they race against your first frost date instead of your last one, and they fight heat stress instead of cold. The vegetables that work in July are either fast maturing or cold hardy, and they need different daily care than spring crops. By this weekend you will have a concrete planting plan with exact spacing, days to maturity for your zone, and the three daily jobs that keep July plantings alive through August heat.

Three jobs that keep July plantings alive through August heat

Deep watering on a schedule that reaches root systems

July seedlings need water that reaches down to their roots, not just the top inch of soil. When soil temperature is above 75 degrees Fahrenheit, water evaporates fast and young plants cannot compete for moisture. Water in the early morning, before 8 AM, so plants have time to absorb moisture before heat peaks.

For direct seeded vegetables in raised beds, water 3 to 4 inches deep every other day until seedlings have four true leaves. Then switch to deep watering twice weekly, soaking the bed to 6 inches. You can check depth by pushing a metal rod or screwdriver into the soil after watering. It should slide easily to 6 inches. See our guide on when to water vegetable plants in summer for exact timing by soil type and container size.

Containers dry out faster than raised beds. A 5 gallon pot with one seedling needs 1 to 2 quarts of water daily when temperatures exceed 85 degrees. Check soil moisture by inserting your finger 2 inches down. If it feels dry, water until water drains from the bottom.

Shade cloth timing for seedlings in intense sun

Seedlings planted in July germinate in full summer sun. Direct seeded beans, peas, and squash can handle full sun once they sprout, but leafy greens, broccoli, and cabbage transplants need protection for the first two weeks. Use 30 percent shade cloth, which blocks one third of light while keeping air circulation moving.

Install shade cloth on the south and west sides of your bed, leaving the north side open. Remove it once plants have four true leaves and are actively growing. If seedlings look pale or stretched, they are reaching for light. Remove shade cloth immediately and increase direct sun exposure.

Pest pressure spikes when plants are young

July heat brings beetles, aphids, and cabbage moths. Young seedlings cannot recover from pest damage the way established plants can. Scout your beds every morning and remove pests by hand. Check the undersides of leaves where aphids hide.

Cabbage family plants attract moths whose caterpillars tunnel into leaves. Install floating row cover the day you plant transplants and keep it on until plants are 6 inches tall. This blocks egg laying. Remove cover before flowering if you are growing for seed.

Quick maturing vegetables you can direct seed this week

Specific varieties with days to maturity

Beans mature fastest and tolerate heat. Plant bush bean varieties like ‘Provider’ (50 days) or ‘Mascotte’ (55 days). Pole beans like ‘Kentucky Wonder’ take 60 days but produce longer in fall. Both need soil temperature of at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit to germinate, but prefer 70 degrees or warmer.

Peas for fall harvest need varieties that tolerate heat and mature quickly. ‘Sugar Snap’ peas take 60 to 70 days. ‘Oregon Sugar Pod’ takes 65 days. Plant by mid July in zone 6b to harvest before your first frost date in mid October.

Lettuce and spinach mature in 40 to 50 days. ‘Buttercrunch’ lettuce reaches harvest size in 45 days. ‘Space’ spinach matures in 40 days. Both germinate better in cooler soil, so direct seed in late afternoon or early evening when soil is coolest.

Radishes mature in 25 to 30 days. ‘Cherry Belle’ and ‘French Breakfast’ are reliable. Plant every two weeks through mid August for continuous harvest into September.

Exact spacing and planting depth

Which ones need thinning and which don’t

Beans and peas planted at correct spacing do not need thinning. Lettuce, spinach, and radishes germinate thick and must be thinned when seedlings have two true leaves. Thin lettuce to 6 inches apart by removing smaller seedlings. Thin spinach to 4 inches apart. Thin radishes to 2 inches apart. The thinned seedlings are edible as microgreens.

Fall crops that need a July start to beat your first frost

Broccoli, cabbage, and kale transplants from seed

Broccoli, cabbage, and kale are fall crops, not spring crops. They mature in cool weather and need to reach full size before frost. Start seeds indoors or in a shaded nursery bed in mid June to early July so transplants are 4 to 6 inches tall by late July or early August. Broccoli takes 55 to 70 days from transplant to harvest. Cabbage takes 60 to 90 days. Kale takes 45 to 60 days.

In zone 6b with a first frost around October 15, you must transplant broccoli by July 20 to harvest by mid October. In zone 5, with first frost around October 1, transplant by July 1. In zone 7, with first frost around November 1, you have until August 10 to transplant.

Harden off transplants by moving them to shade cloth for a week before planting in your bed. This prevents transplant shock in July heat.

Root vegetables that still have time

Carrots take 60 to 80 days. Direct seed ‘Nantes’ or ‘Chantenay’ varieties by July 15 in zone 6b. Beets take 50 to 70 days. Plant ‘Detroit Dark Red’ or ‘Golden’ by July 20. Both need consistent moisture as they develop, so mulch heavily after seedlings emerge.

Turnips and rutabagas mature in 60 to 90 days and taste better after frost. Plant by mid July in zone 6b. These are cold hardy and can stay in the ground through November.

Leafy greens that mature fastest

Arugula matures in 30 to 40 days and tolerates heat if watered consistently. Direct seed every two weeks through August. Chard matures in 45 to 60 days and produces through frost. Plant ‘Bright Lights’ or ‘Fordhook Giant’ by late July. Kale matures in 45 to 60 days and improves in flavor after frost touches the leaves.

Warm season vegetables you can squeeze in before frost

Beans and peas with realistic timelines

Bush beans planted by July 31 will mature by mid October in zone 6b. Pole beans need 60 days, so plant by July 15 to harvest before frost. Peas planted by mid July will flower in cool fall weather and produce heavily in September and early October.

Cucumbers and squash that still have room

Cucumbers planted by July 15 in zone 6b will produce for 4 to 6 weeks before frost. ‘Marketmore’ and ‘Armenian’ varieties mature in 50 to 65 days. Plant seeds 1 inch deep, 12 inches apart in rows 36 inches apart. Squash takes 50 to 65 days. ‘Patty Pan’ and ‘Delicata’ mature faster than winter squash. Plant by July 10 to harvest by October 15.

Okra and southern peas for zones 6 and warmer

Okra needs 50 to 65 days and thrives in extreme heat. Plant by July 31 in zone 6b. ‘Clemson Spineless’ and ‘Red Burgundy’ are reliable. Southern peas like black eyed peas and purple hulls mature in 60 to 90 days. Plant by mid July in zone 6 and zone 7. These crops are sensitive to frost, so harvest before temperatures drop below 32 degrees Fahrenheit.

What actually fails when you plant in July and what to skip

Why tomatoes planted now won’t set fruit

Tomato flowers drop when nighttime temperatures exceed 75 degrees Fahrenheit. July is peak heat. A tomato seedling planted in July will grow leaves all summer but produce no fruit before frost. Skip tomatoes entirely for July planting. If you want fall tomatoes, start seeds in late April for transplants ready in June, not July. For more on tomato care, see our guide on tomato plant fertilizer.

Corn that runs out of time

Corn takes 60 to 90 days and needs consistent warmth. Planted in July, corn will still be in the milk stage when frost arrives and kernels will not mature. Early maturing varieties like ‘Honey and Cream’ (60 days) planted by July 1 might barely make it in zone 7, but will fail in zone 6. Skip corn for July planting in zones 5 and 6b.

Long season crops that need earlier starts

Peppers take 60 to 90 days from transplant to first harvest. Planted in July, they will flower but produce very little fruit before frost. Winter squash and pumpkins take 80 to 120 days. July planting means harvest in November or December, after frost has killed the vines. Melons take 70 to 100 days and need continuous heat. Skip these for July. Start them in May for July harvest. For information on pepper care, see companion plants for peppers.

Adjusting your planting dates by zone and your first frost date

How to count backward from first frost to days to maturity

Find your first frost date using your local extension office or a frost date calculator. Count backward the number of days the vegetable needs to mature. Plant that many days before your frost date.

Example: Your first frost is October 15. You want to grow broccoli that needs 65 days from transplant to harvest. Count back 65 days from October 15. That is August 11. You must transplant broccoli into your garden by August 11 to harvest by October 15.

Add 7 to 10 days for transplant hardening and 5 to 7 days for germination. If you are starting seeds indoors, start 12 to 14 weeks before your transplant date.

Zone 5 and colder adjustments

Zone 5 has first frost around September 25 to October 1. You have less time than zone 6. Plant quick maturing varieties only. Bush beans must be in by July 20. Broccoli and cabbage must be transplanted by July 10. Leafy greens are your best bet. Plant lettuce, spinach, and arugula every two weeks from early July through mid August. They will mature in cool fall weather and tolerate light frost.

Zone 7 and warmer adjustments

Zone 7 has first frost around November 1 to November 15. You have extra time. You can plant broccoli and cabbage by August 15 and still harvest. Carrots and beets can be planted until August 1. Leafy greens can be planted through late August. Fall crops in zone 7 have a long season. Plant cool season crops by mid August and harvest through November.

Zone 8 and warmer can plant a full fall garden in July and August. Tomatoes started from seed in July can be transplanted in August and produce in fall and winter. Peppers planted in August will produce in fall. Check your specific first frost date because it varies by elevation and local weather patterns.

Raised bed and container setup for July plantings that compete with heat

Soil moisture retention without waterlogging

July soil dries fast. Add 2 to 3 inches of compost to the top of your raised bed before planting. This increases water holding capacity. Mix in perlite or coarse sand if your soil compacts easily. Soil should be crumbly, not dense.

Raised beds drain faster than in ground beds. Add drip irrigation or soaker hoses to keep moisture consistent without overwatering. Containers need drainage holes and should not sit in standing water. Water until water drains from the bottom, then let soil dry slightly between waterings.

Mulch depth and material choices

Mulch keeps soil cool and retains moisture. Apply 2 to 3 inches of straw or wood chips after seedlings are 2 inches tall. Keep mulch 2 inches away from plant stems to prevent rot. Do not use fresh grass clippings, which heat up and can kill seedlings. Use aged compost or shredded leaves instead.

Container size for fast growing vegetables

Beans and peas need 5 gallon containers minimum. Lettuce and spinach need 3 to 5 gallon containers. Radishes and arugula need 2 to 3 gallon containers. Root vegetables like carrots and beets need 5 to 7 gallon containers to allow 6 to 8 inches of soil depth. Larger containers retain moisture better and give roots more room to develop in heat stress conditions.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I plant tomatoes in July and still get fruit before frost?

No. Tomato flowers drop when nighttime temperatures stay above 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and July nights are too warm for fruit set. A July planted tomato will grow all summer but produce no fruit before frost. Start tomato seeds in late April for June transplants if you want a fall crop.

How deep should I water July seedlings when it’s this hot?

Water direct seeded beds 3 to 4 inches deep every other day until seedlings have four true leaves. Then switch to 6 inches deep twice weekly. Check depth by pushing a metal rod into soil after watering. It should slide easily to 6 inches. Containers need water daily in extreme heat. Check soil 2 inches down. If dry, water until it drains from the bottom.

Do I need shade cloth for all July plantings or just some?

Direct seeded beans, peas, and squash handle full sun once they sprout. Leafy greens, broccoli, and cabbage transplants need 30 percent shade cloth for the first two weeks. Remove it once plants have four true leaves. If seedlings look pale or stretched, remove shade cloth immediately.

What’s the fastest vegetable I can plant in July that will actually mature?

Radishes mature in 25 to 30 days. ‘Cherry Belle’ and ‘French Breakfast’ are reliable. Lettuce takes 40 to 45 days. ‘Buttercrunch’ is fast and tolerates heat. Arugula matures in 30 to 40 days. All three are edible at smaller sizes if you harvest early.

Should I use transplants or seeds for my July garden?

Use transplants for broccoli, cabbage, and kale. They need to reach full size before frost, and transplants save 6 to 8 weeks. Direct seed beans, peas, lettuce, spinach, radishes, and arugula. They germinate and mature quickly. Direct seeding is faster and cheaper than transplants for these crops.